Skin
Basics
The skin is made up of three layers:
The epidermis is the outer
skin layer and functions as the skin’s protective barrier.
Whilst this barrier function is essential, it does prevent absorption
of active ingredients into the skin. The skin has not just one,
but two barriers that act to prevent the absorption of active
ingredients into the skin, the stratum corneum and the epidermal
dermal junction.
The dermis lies under the epidermis
and these two layers are separated by the epidermal-dermal junction,
a semi-permeable membrane, that allows the passage of some substances
through into the dermis. Beneath the dermis lies the subcutaneous
layer, which consists of fat and blood vessels. The dermis also
contains hair follicles, sebaceous glands and sweat (eccrine)
glands.
To successfully correct the
commonest skin conditions, we need to concentrate on the epidermis
and the dermis and understand their structure and function.
The
Epidermis
The epidermis is made up of 2 cell types:
Keratinocytes are protein cells which make up the majority of
the epidermis and are arranged in layers above the ( base ) basal
layer.
New keratinocytes are made by
division of keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis.
As new keratinocytes are made, the keratinocytes in the layers
above the basal layer are pushed upwards towards the surface of
the skin. As the keratinocytes are pushed upwards, they begin
to flatten and die. By the time they reach the stratum corneum,
the outermost layer of the epidermis, they are ready to exfoliate
as dead skin cells.
This process of skin renewal
occurs continuously in the skin and takes around 30 -40 days to
complete. Via this inbuilt renewal process the skin is able to
ensure its protective barrier remains in optimum condition through
its lifetime. This barrier is so vital for the body’s health
that we will die if we loose more than 50% of our epidermis. The
advent of artificial skin has revolutionized the treatment of
burns victims by providing an artificial skin barrier to protect
burns victims until they can re-establish their own skin barrier
function.
We can degrade the effectiveness
of the epidermal barrier through excessive UV exposure and excessive
use of skin cleansing agents. In normal skin, the number of new
cells made in the basal layer is equal to the number of dead skin
cells exfoliating from the skin’s surface.
Melanocytes
The 2nd cell type in the epidermis are the melanocytes. The melanocytes
are pigment producing cells which lie in the basal layer of
the epidermis. The number of melanocytes in the basal layer
determines our genetic skin colour. The role of the melanocytes
is to protect the keratinocytes from mutation from UV radiation
the skin receives during sun exposure. Understanding this
role is key to understanding why sun damage and abnormal pigmentation
occur and how we can prevent and treat these skin conditions.
The melanocytes have long arms
which stretch up into the upper layers of the epidermis, allowing
them to make contact with many keratinocytes. When the skin is
exposed to UV radiation, the melanin granules contained in structures
called melanosomes, migrate from the melanocytes into the surrounding
keratinocytes. This is called a tan. The melanosomes coat the
nuclei of the keratinocytes, protecting them from UV radiation
and the risk of mutation. As these keratinocytes are pushed upwards
to the surface of the skin, they exfoliate and the skin returns
to its natural colour.
The number of melanocytes each
skin has, is the result of 1000s of years of evolution. The skin
has evolved to have the right number of melanocytes to protect
the skin from the UV radiation risk associated with the geographic
region the skin inhabits. If a skin type, with a melanocyte count
evolved for one region, is then relocated to a region with a much
higher UV exposure, the inbuilt melanin keratinocyte protective
system can be very easily overwhelmed.
The first sign that this melanin
protective system (MPS ) has been overwhelmed is vertical clumping
of melanin. We call this a freckle. Over time as the skin receives
continued UV overexposure, melanin starts to horizontally clump,
producing a chloasma (dermal pigment staining) type hyperpigmentation,
which, unlike hormone induced chloasma, is very difficult to treat.
Following years of overexposure
to UV, the melanocytes can be completely overwhelmed and die,
leaving small round patches of depigmented skin. This is evident
on the forearms of most Caucasian Australians, over the age of
40.
Melanocytes can also overproduce melanin in response to hormones,
skin injury, inflammation and some drugs. The commonest reason
for hyperpigmentation in the skin is UV overexposure and the second,
scarring, in particular, acne scarring.
Some skins are more prone to hyperpigmenting than others and one
theory postulates this may be due to genetic mixing of different
skin types eg Caucasian/Asian: African/Hispanic: Asian/Hispanic.
The Dermis
75% of the dermis is made up of collagen.
In healthy skin it is arranged in bundles in a “basket-weave”
pattern, which provides the dermis with its strength and prevents
tearing. Collagen decreases as the skin ages, therefore the skin
becomes thinner and sags the older we are.
5% of dermis is elastin. Elastin maintains the skin’s tension
and extensibility. Elastin fibers decrease, fragment and loose
their normal structure as the skin ages. In sun exposed skin,
elastin increases, and becomes thickened and dysfunctional. Fibroblasts
are the master cells of the dermis and are able to produce new
collagen, elastin fibers and the dermal matrix when stimulated.
The Cosmetic industry has convinced us
that skin ages as a result of skin dryness and that moisturisers
re-hydrate the skin to restore a youthful appearance and reduce
wrinkles. Unfortunately this is not true.
In order to treat and reverse skin ageing,
we need to use treatments that have an effect on the dermis
and the fibroblasts to stimulate new collagen and elastin
production. That is because the major cause of skin ageing
is collagen loss. Collagen loss is determined largely by our
genetics, but excess sun exposure accelerates collagen loss
and leads to premature skin ageing. Moisturisers only have
an action on the epidermis and can make the skin feel softer
by filling in the spaces between exfoliating skin cells. Moisturisers
can exacerbate skin problems such as acne, rosacea, seborrhoea
and clogged pores, and should be used with extreme care on
acne prone skin.
What are the Elements of Healthy Skin
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Healthy skin is smooth because of undamaged and compact keratinocytes.
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Healthy skin is firm with abundant functioning collagen and elastin.
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Healthy skin is evenly coloured due to properly functioning melanocytes.
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Healthy skin is properly hydrated due to richness in glycosaminoglycans
(moisture holding cells in the dermis).
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Healthy skin has an efficient and continual skin cell renewal.
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Healthy skin has a good blood supply.
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Healthy skin repairs itself quickly when scratched, scraped or
injured
Which Active Ingredients are effective?
The Cosmetic Industry is expert at presenting
new products with “wonder ingredients” that they claim
will reverse skin ageing. Advertisements are usually accompanied
by photographs of very young models or movie stars, with perfect
skin and perfect makeup. There are also 101 “ miracle “
acne cures advertised in magazines, TV and on the Internet. Unfortunately,
very few are backed by independent research. Even the most cursory
research on medical data bases like Medline will reveal that there
are very few active ingredients in skin creams that can successfully
correct the commonest skin problems – skin ageing, acne,
pigmentation and redness.
The Retinols – Retinol, Retinyl
Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate
The Retinols were first manufactured in the late 1980s to mimic
the anti-ageing effects of prescription skin creams. Whilst
not as effective as prescription skin creams, the Retinols were
found to have some beneficial effects for skin ageing (retinols
will repair fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin texture)
however, the retinols have a paradoxical effect on acne prone
skin –
THEY CAN STIMULATE BLACKHEAD AND WHITEHEAD FORMATION. Therefore
Clearskincare recommends using retinyl palmitate for skin ageing,
provided the client is not acne prone. Clearskincare
New Skin cream contains a powerful 1% retinyl palmitate, the highest concentration
allowable in a cosmetic cream.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic Acid is one of the many members of the family of Alpha
Hydroxy and Beta Hydroxy Acids. These fruit acids are excellent
skin exfoliants. Other members of the family are salicylic acid,
malic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, lactic acid. AHAs and BHAs
are skin exfoliants, that act by loosening the bonds between keratinocytes
on the skin’s surface. Acne prone skins produce too many
skin cells which clump with excess sebum to form plugs which block
up the pores of the skin.
Therefore AHAs are very effective in
the treatment of acne prone skins through exfoliation and are
also very effective in sun damaged skins, which are also characterized
by reduced exfoliation, which gives them their dry and crusty
feel.
Clearskincare’s Smooth Skin 8% is an 8% glycolic acid cream, which is recommended for daily
use in acne prone and sundamaged skins.
Clearskincare’s Microdermabrasion
cream with glycolic acid is a revolutionary
exfoliating cream for acne prone and sundamaged skins. Designed
to reproduce a salon Microdermabrasion treatment, a 5 minute
wet scrub with Clearskincare’s
Microdermabrasion Cream with Glycolic Acid leaves the skin feeling
incredibly smooth and soft and controls mild acne.
Topical Vitamin C
Clearskincare
Vitamin C Serum has a
new Vitamin C compound called “ Vitagen” as
it’s
active Vitamin C. We all know Vitamin C is a powerful anti-oxidant
and anti-ageing compound but most Vitamin C solutions
are very unstable. This is Clearskincare’s latest
Vitamin C formulation as we constantly upgrade our formulas
to the most stable Vitamin C available. Vitagen is amino
ascorbyl phosphate and has been shown in clinical tests
to be significantly more stable than ascorbic acid, L ascorbic
acid or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (which are other
common forms of Vitamin C used in serums).
In clinical
trials “Vitagen” Vitamin C led to a 20%
decrease in fine lines and wrinkles in the eye and cheek area.
Copper Peptides
We have been looking for an effective and affordable product
to compliment the Clearskincare Skin & Scalp Roller and Face Roller that will maximise the benefits of skin
needling. We have found that product Copper Peptides. For acne
scar, all indented scars and aging skin we have Clearskincare
Copper Peptide Serum. To compliment our Clearskincare Hair Restoration Pack we have developed the Clearskincare
CP Hair Tonic. Clearskincare uses 2nd generation copper
peptides, complexes of copper ions and small pieces of proteins
called peptides. Copper peptides are a normal constituent
of human plasma, saliva and urine.
The 2nd generation copper peptides are
a very stable, breakdown resistant copper peptide with a high
adherence to skin and tissue and is the most effective form
of copper peptide available.
What are the benefits of Clearskincare Copper
Peptide Serum for scarred and ageing skin?
1. Assists the body's own wound and scar repair mechanism
2.
Increases
skin renewal – reduces
the appearance of wrinkle and fine lines
3. Reduces the appearance of skin
ageing – firms the skin, reduces the appearance of
small and large wrinkles, reduces blotchiness and blemishes,
improves elasticity and skin plumpness
4. Reduces the appearance of sun
damage – reduces visible signs of ageing and increases
skin density in 8 weeks
